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HSF or Monthly #2-1920’s Headdress

And here we are again for another Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge. A bit late but better late than never. This fortnight’s challenge is to get something off the UFO pile. Just to finish off something that’s never really gotten finished. Perfect! I have just the thing. Last year, I made a Tiana cosplay (from Princess and the Frog) but I made her historically accurate. The movie is set in the 1920’s so of course there was beading, a rode de style and finger waves.

I have to say I wasn’t a fan of the 1920’s until I did this cosplay. Now I utterly adore it and can’t wait for the next project in this era. But for now, here is the project that is unfinished. I designed this cosplay with a 1920’s headdress referenced from the book The Mode in Hats and Headdress by R. Turner Wilcox. Unfortunately, I ran out of time before the Comic Con and just couldn’t finish it so I went without it. So the best opportunity is to do it right now. ( And stop letting it mock me on my unfinished sewing pile)

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Now you can see why it was taking me so long. I was hand beading different patterns into it. This small amount took me ages. But thank goodness for HSF because it made me push through to the end.

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I managed to get all the vines on. I was going for a leafy and flowery pattern to match Tiana’s look and the dress I made. I used the same fabric and the same beads as I did for the dress. The stitching is omnistitching that my sewing machine did. I was in such a hurry when I started making this last year that I couldn’t be bothered to design a beading patterns. So, hence the perfect stitches and beading over top. I made the beading relatively simple, until…

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I decided to add more detail to the beading. I could have been almost done but, come on, this was supposed to be from the 1920’s. My original beading was a bit too plan. Its all or nothing baby!

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Finally I had managed to bead it all, including the centerpiece. ( I will show you that in a minute). You can see a vines and flowers and leaves sort of vibe here, doesn’t hurt that it is all in green. I will say I was surprised when I lifted this and found a bit more weight on it. Woah. Beads may be tiny but together, they are quite the army.

Next it was time to sew on the beaded outer fabric to the buckram and wire base. Of course this was done by hand. Which was a welcome relief to the hand beading before. Then I sewed the lining to the back over the buckram.

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I added a touch more after the fact by sewing on a string of pearls to the top of the headdress. The top looked a little plain without it and it matched the next embellishment…

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Hanging pearls! I admit here I wasn’t sure how best to attached these pearls to the headdress. I ended up using hot glue (I know, I know! It was late and I was tired and frustrated with the pearls falling everywhere) But it worked out. Next time, I will sew the ends of the pearls to the buckram layer and the then sew the lining on top of that. But for this proof of concept, this worked out.

And now drum roll for the final result…

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TADA!! I love this so much. I felt like a vintage beauty. Here you can see I did finish the centerpiece and pearls are staying on quite well. But how it the headdress staying on your head, you may ask?

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Simple ribbon ties I hand sewed in the headdress before the lining. I had no idea if this headdress was supposed to be headband style or crown style so I designed it this way. The Wilcox book didn’t show the back to the headdress. I noticed in the book the women wore headdresses quite low on their heads. I wore this close to my eyebrows to mimic that look so its a good thing it can be adjusted. And now for what you have been waiting for, the wrap up and photo gallery.

The Challenge: #2 the UFO: Let’s get something off our UFO pile! Use this opportunity to finish off something that’s never quite gotten done, or stalled halfway through.

 The Project: 1920’s headdress from a historically accurate Princess and the Frog cosplay I didn’t finish last year.

Fabric and notions: Sparkle chiffon ($8 per yard), buckram ($8 per yard), wire (had it for ages), many different types of beads and pearls (bought on sale~$40), needle and thread

 Pattern: My own design inspired by The Mode in Hats and Headdress by R. Turner Wilcox.

 Year: 1920’s

 How historically accurate is it? Very I would say. The shape is there. The beading needed a bit more practice but it was pretty. Next time, I will draw out a pattern rather than using the omnistitches on my sewing machine which took off accuracy points.

 Hours to complete: ~25 hours ( most of this was beading)

Total cost: ~$48 (estimating so much here, I threw away the receipts >_<)

Overall, this was great to do. I love beading, it is relaxing. It does for me what adult coloring does for other people. Time to think or time to listen to many books and songs. I would love to do something like this again. So my next idea would be a whole new dress. (Oh the projects.) Okay, enough blabbing here is a bit of a gallery.

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❤ Sarania

Historical Sew Fortnightly or Monthly #1

Hey there,

It’s been a little while but I have my next HSF project done. This fortnight’s challenge was #1:Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sew/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial-Sew something from __13. So I chose to sew the Lucile Nightdress from 1913.

Nightdress Lucille made 1913 © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

As I said in a previous post, I am going through the 2013 challenges which is why I went for 1913 rather than 1917. The night dress is made of silk georgette and chiffon and trimmed with machine lace.

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I started with going through my own stash to try and use what I have but sadly I had no silk georgette or chiffon. I don’t really use light weight fabrics often so this was going to be challenging. I opted to buy white chiffon and a kind of faux white silk that kind of resembled the silk georgette of the night dress (without the square pin tucks). The pink fabric is from my stash that I got many years ago from my best friend’s grandmother who was a seamstress. Its a kind of crepe satin. The light pink was perfect to recreate the bows on the dress. I also pulled some lace trim from my stash that I got from the fabric store. It was lightly gathered so I cut the gathers out so I could have a flat lace ribbon. I didn’t end up using the small bows or the crinoline to stiffen the bows.

I started by using some nylon tricot to drape the bodice shape. I planned to add extra inches all around to make the nightdress more loose and flowy but sadly I did not add enough inches when cutting so the dress is a bit more fitted than I would like.

I used the drape to cut out all the pieces of the bodice and the sleeve. I also cut two lengths of chiffon for the skirt part. Two big rectangles the width of the fabric didn’t need to be draped. And from here everything was sewn together quite unceremoniously.

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The nightdress top made sense to me how it was sewn together so I just did it. Looking back, I realize that sewing with chiffon is not as bad as you would think. I am usually not a fan of light weight fabrics because they are hard to work with but if you use the correct needle, take your time and go slow, it is really not that bad. And even seeing this small piece together made me all a flutter with how delicate and feminine it looked.

Here is the sleeve being constructed. A lot of the this dress had the lace between seems and parts of the garment. Which I can’t deny is just lovely. Chiffon, silk and lace have a beauty that is beyond compare , you just have to treat them well in order to get the look you want. The only thing I missed doing was I should have used french seams and narrow hems and flat felled seams instead of just doing right sides together and top stitching. Now there are a ton of raw edges on the inside and chiffon frays like crazy. Total rookie move. I will remember for next time.

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The bows came together very easily. A lot of straight seems, fold over and stitch and voila a bow. I love my handmade bows a lot better than the ribbon bows to be honest. A touch more work but worth it.

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And finally, complete! I love it. As I said before it is a bit too fitted at the bust but this is on my dress form that is sized to me when I am wearing a bra. Without a bra, this is the flowly dream I was hoping for. I won’t model that here for obvious reasons but here are more pictures of the dress.

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Sans bows.

Overall I adore this nightdress and will probably pick many a night to wear it…most likely in the hot summer.

And now for the challenge stats…

The Challenge: #1:Bi/Tri/Quadri/Quin/Sew/Septi/Octo/Nona/Centennial-Sew something from __13.

 The Project: 1913 Lucille NightDress

 Fabric: Chiffon ($5 per yard-used 3), Silk like Chiffon ($4 per yard-used 1), Pink silk crepe (from stash), Lace trim ($3.99 per roll-used 2)

 Pattern: My own drape

 Year: 1913

 Notions: Needle and thread

How historically accurate is it?: Pretty darn. I basically recreated the nightdress from the photo by V&A Museum. The only thing I didn’t have was silk georgette so that would knock off some historical accuracy points.

Hours to complete: 7 hours  (6hours of i\them was done in one day and that was sewing it together)

 First worn: 2/13/17 ( no photos as it shows A LOT)

 Total cost: $26.98

I am looking forward to feeling like an Edwardian lady retiring to her bedroom.

❤ Sarania